Maison Margiela FW19 - The Beauty in Decadence
If there were a list of designers who have over time become experts at breaking gender norms and perfecting deeply thought out tales in fashion, John Galliano would undoubtedly be on the top of that list. For Maison Margiela’s FW19 collection, the house’s creative director gave us both the pertinent and the poetic in a co-ed collection which stripped standard tailoring to its core. The collection, opened by 19-year old trans model Finn Buchanan, sporting a black oversized double-breasted coat, was spun around the stimulus of exploring the beauty in the concept of decadence. The collection spurred the ideology similar to rushing towards a destructive burning sun but appreciating the beauty of the process of being stripped of all your garments by it’s heat, and the alluring bareness it leaves you . Or in this case, deconstructing and tearing the limps and hems off the perfect versions of traditional tailoring, stripping it to its core and valuing the elegant deconstructed rawness in which it’s presented.
With his expert couture hand, the designer presented a line of upside down inside out silhouettes, where shadows of garments were left on each other, a men’s Harris tweed coat were chopped into a short, a black puffer jacket in quilted chiffon styled over white wadding and black coat. Also where as the palette initially began with blacks, browns and greys — logo sweatshirts, a belted cashmere trench coat or an oversized beige cardigan , skillfully crafted with a minimalistic yet signature Margiela approach . Then the collection gradually raged into a kaleidoscope of multi-coloured flamingo patterns which initially began with the subtle styling of the hot pink pattern as tights underneath a double breasted grey coat to a look with the print in full tights and and on the rear of tweed cropped jacket worn by a man. Yes, the co-ed collection allowed room for that level of flexibility and gender fluidity. Nothing was specifically menswear or womenswear, men wore skirts and dresses and women wore whatever the heck they wanted.
Down to the accessories, Margiela debuted a multi-coloured retrofit sneakers, a beige version as well and several updated versions of his gender signature gender neutral ankle boot, including a white pair with hints of gold.
In 2019, with a generation of millennials and Generation Z who are tossing away the concepts of gender and conformity, Galliano has definitely put himself a few steps ahead of the fashion industry’s adjustment to the times.