Back to The Basics
American fashion designer Thom Browne is one who never fails to seamlessly blend forms of theatrics with the principles of menswear. Each season, Browne’s shows have become intricately detailed performances which toss aside the notion of menswear being the more boring of the three clothing genres. However, for Fall Winter 2019, presented earlier this year, Browne scaled back on his usual fantasies of death-trap heels and face masks to go back to the basics of his original vision. Ten years ago, the designer first showcased his signature suit look for men at Pitti Uomo the menswear festival. This season he opted to not only reminisce on that, but also introduce a version of this silhouette for his female customer. Set in a space that included an executive pool of women working around desks and typewriters (said to be representative of female empowerment), the designer first introduced a squad of models wearing identical workwear of tailored grey suits, beige thigh-high trench coats carrying briefcases. After establishing the basis with a few of these identical looks, the designer slowly began to introduce couture versions stemming from the average suit. This began with a suit with a pant cut just above the knee, a bouclé dress tailored as a suit, a grey suit look with fur cuffs and hems, a bead embroidered suit-dress with a painting of Lady Una Troubridge by 1920s French artist Romaine Brooks, men’s tie-patterned pants and column dresses. Although this collection was an ode to women, Browne denied any claims of androgynous clothing clarifying that he is giving some well deserved centred attention, “I’m not trying to put men’s clothing on women, this jacket [ for example ] is very specifically tailored to a woman,” he explained. Thom Browne may singlehandedly be considered the most exciting thing to happen to traditional menswear, so nothing stops him from further opening his fantasies into traditional womenswear as well.