A Fresh Proposal to Modern Luxury

n the last few years the streetwear industry has been making a shift towards a more tailored silhouette than that which it is known for. Many of the sector’s major players have been subtly making the shift towards a sharper style of menswear including designer Matthew Williams of 1017 Alyx 9SM who for the past few seasons has been aiming to find his voice in the world classic tailoring, while still remaining true to his streetwear roots.

His SS20 show was the peak of this transition. The collection interpreted a more formal channel of the brand by way of an inward reflection on the maison’s values. “Tailoring is a really difficult thing to do as a young brand. Some of the construction we’re attempting to do is trying to find our own language. I think it’s a nice challenge to define what that is for us,” explained the designer Matthew Williams.

The result was a line of futuristic garments that spoke with a voice true to the brand’s identity while offering new proposals to high tech layering. It was a compilation of trim tailored suiting, military vests, tapered trousers, Mac coats , layered trench coats, leather coats and blazers featured in black, brown, gray and purple with an interesting technical form of styling. The accessories which accompanied were all made by hand and included versions of the brand’s signature body harnesses, rollercoaster belts, nylon waist bags and backpacks, some of which were bonded to the world’s strongest fibre Dyneema. Williams is straight-forward in his offerings , he doesn’t get mixed up in the complexities of themes or concepts, he offers a proposal for modern luxury from a young fresh  perspective that has been associated by the greats like Virgil Abloh and Heron Preston which is what makes it even more interesting.

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