Martine Rose SS19 - A Love Letter to London
Martine Rose is known as one of the few of London’s menswear designers with a dedicated fashion cult. A cult that supports her throughout her ventures in exploring menswear in the unconventional venues and locations outside the traditional peripherals of the London fashion week landscape. For last spring the designer brought her audience to Tottenham London as she presented a collection inspired by the ‘80s and ‘90s Toronto underground scene in a community climbing centre. However, for Spring Summer 2019 the designer channelled a similar inspiration and showcased in the small town of Chalk Farm London. The collection drew inspiration from the spirit of London’s ’90s rave scene. Being raised in south London during the era, Rose grew up surrounded by a variety of subcultures which she often uses as an archive for inspiration. The man created through this collection is an older wiser version of the Martine Rose persona. His wardrobe includes pieces like heavyweight draped shirts, spray painted punk jeans, mauve Hawaiian shirts, gold lurex, motocross trousers and square-toed loafers. He’s not confined by traditional masculinity and chooses to explore with bright colours, cheetah prints and flowing silhouettes. “He’s a complexed character with layers of history and experiences reflected by his wardrobe.” Throughout the collection, runs a consistent home-made aesthetic which enhances it’s punk character: seams are left on the outside, drum and bass knitwear is slightly frayed. Striped logo t-shirts take inspiration from the graphics used by a car mechanics garage in Tottenham. Each detail is carefully strung together in an effort to create what the designer describes as her love letter to London.